SECRETS FOR REPAINTING A RADIO
MY SECRETS FOR PAINTED RADIOS REALLY AREN'T SECRETS, JUST COMMON SENSE PROCESS POINTS.

FIRST I THOROUGHLY CLEAN AND WASH EVERY RADIO CASE I PREP FOR PAINTING BY HAND USING A 50/50 MIX OF WATER AND AMMONIA IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA. I USE A TOOTHBRUSH TO CLEAN ALL THE GRILL BARS, CORNERS, DIAL CREVICES AND SUCH AS EACH SET DEMANDS FOR A TOTALLY CLEANED SET. THEN LET THEM DRY OUT AND WIPE DOWN WITH A PAPER TOWEL (SPARKLE BRAND WORKS BEST FOR ME, CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL AT DOLLAR GENERAL, WALLY WORLD, ETC.) AND THEN I GO OVER THE CREVICES WITH A MEDICAL Q-TIP TO REMOVE ANY DEBRIS FROM THE TINIEST PLACES THAT COULD CAUSE A DUST BLOB OR GOOBER IN THE FINAL FINISH. SOME SETS TAKE LONGER TO DETAIL OUT THAN OTHERS BUT THE AVERAGE IS ABOUT TWO HOURS OF DETAIL CLEANING BEFORE A PAINT JOB COMMENCES ON MY SETS.

MAKE SURE THE CABINET IS DRY AND THEN USE A TACK RAG TO WIPE IT DOWN AND GET THE REST OF ANY DUST THAT SETTLES ON IT IN THE DRYING PROCESS (USUALLY A COUPLE HOURS MINIMUM TO A DAY OR SO DEPENDING ON SIZE AND AMBIENT HUMIDITY, CREVICE HOLD MOISTURE FOR A WHILE!).

I THEN COAT THE LABEL ON THE RADIO BOTTOM WITH TWO OR THREE COATS OF A GOOD CLEAR COAT LIKE KRYLON ACRYLIC CLEAR TO ALLOW ME TO MASK IT OFF FOR PAINTING.

AFTER THE CLEARCOAT DRIES, USUALLY 2-3 HOURS AT MINIMUM, I USE A LIGHT TACK PAINTERS MASKING TAPE TO COVER THE CLEARCOATED LABEL AREA. THE LIGHT TACK TAPE IS AVAILABLE AT WALLY WORLD (WAL-MART) AND WON'T PULL THE LABEL OFF THE RADIO WHEN TAKEN OFF EVEN AFTER A FEW DAYS AND SEVERAL COATS OF PAINT ARE COVERING IT.

I THEN USE AN X-ACTO KNIFE TO TRIM AROUND THE LABEL AREA AND REMOVE THE EXCESS TAPE SO THE LABEL IS TRIMMED TO THE EDGE OF THE TAPE AND THEN I PRIMER THE CABINET TO GET IT READY FOR FINAL COAT.

I USE ONLY DUPLICOLOR SANDABLE PRIMER IN GRAY AVAILABLE FROM THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE AS IT HAS A NICE FANSPRAY VALVE AND GETS A MORE EVEN COAT DOWN. I USE ON AVERAGE TWO TO THREE THIN COATS RATHER THAN ONE HEAVY ONE AS IT LETS THE FINISH COATS STABILIZE BETTER WITHOUT VEHICLE (PROPELLANT) BLEED THROUGH WHICH CAN RUIN A FINISH IF YOU GO TOO FAST.

LET THE PRIMER DRY FOR A DAY AT MINIMUM TO ALLOW IT TO BOND WITH THE CABINET MATERIAL!

USE A FINE 2000 GRIT FINISHING PAPER BY 3M AVAILABLE AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE AGAIN TO GO OVER THE PRIMED CABINET TO REMOVE ANY DUST BOOGERS OR HAIRS YOU SEE AND THEN RUN THE TACK RAG OVER IT AGAIN. REPRIMER ANY THIN AREAS YOU FIND ON INSPECTION IF NEEDED AND REDO THE FINISH SANDING AND TACK RAG APPLICATION IF NEEDED.

WHEN THE PRIMER HAS SET UP FOR A DAY TAKE THE CABINET TO YOUR PAINTING AREA (I DO ALL MINE OUTSIDE ON NON WINDY DAYS IN LOWEST POSSIBLE HUMIDITY AND YES IT DOES MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT!) AND SET IT UP ON YOUR PAINTING STAND. I MADE MINE OUT OF A COUPLE BLOCKS OF WOOD THAT I SET UPRIGHT ON AN OLD CD SPINNER CABINET TO GET IT UP IN THE AIR FAR ENOUGH SO THAT I CAN SPIN THE RADIO TO ANY SIDE AND KEEP MY SPRAY CAN MOVING IN THE PAINTING PROCESS. MAKE SURE THE AREA IS FREE OF LOOSE DEBRIS AND DUST BEFORE PAINTING BEGINS SO YOU DON'T KICK UP ANYTHING IN THE SPRAYING PROCESS THAT MIGHT GET STUCK TO THE NEW FINISH!

I USE ONLY DUPLICOLOR AUTOMOTIVE LACQUERS WITH THE FANSPRAY VALVE FOR MY BEST SETS AS THE LACQUER DRIES VERY FAST AND TAKES TO MULTIPLE COATS VERY WELL OR FOR LESSER EXPENSIVE SETS OR ONES I WANT A REALLY WILD COLOR SCHEME ON I USE KRYLON PAINTS AS THEY HAVE THE BEST ADHESION AND FLOW CHARACTERISTICS AND THEY DRY TO THE TOUCH IN LIGHT COATS AFTER 10 MINUTES, LONGER FOR MULTIPLE COATS.

I THEN BEGIN TO SPRAY MY CHOSEN COLOR IN FULL PASS SWEEPS OF THE CABINET WHICH IS MOUNTED FACE UP ON THE PAINT STAND STARTING WITH THE BOTTOM OF THE CABINET TO GET MY SPRAY DISTANCE AND SPEED FIGURED OUT AND THEN PROCEED TO THE FACE SIDES AND LAST THE TOP USING SEVERAL LIGHTER COATS WHICH OVERLAP IN COVERAGE RATHER THAN A HEAVY COAT AS IT PREVENTS RUNS.

REMEMBER TO USE FULL SWEEPING PASSES TO GO PAST THE EDGES OF THE CABINET AND PREVENT PILEUP OF PAINT ON THE SURFACES OF THE CABINET. DO NOT STAY IN ONE PLACE FOR TOO LONG AS IT WILL CAUSE BAD RUNS AND A RESTRIP AND STARTING OVER WHICH IS LIKE HAVING A SHARP STICK SHOVED IN YOUR EYE, I KNOW, I'VE DONE IT, (THE RESTRIP, NOT THE SHARP STICK)!

AFTER YOU GET THE FINAL COATS ON, TAKING YOUR TIME AND LETTING THE PAINT SET UP TO DRY BETWEEN COATS HELPS TO GET A MORE EVEN FINISH IN THE LONG RUN, LET THE CABINET SET FOR AT LEAST A DAY TO HARDEN IN A DUST FREE AREA.

DO NOT TOUCH THE CABINET TO SEE IF IT IS DRY AS IT WON'T BE FOR AT LEAST A DAY AS THE PAINTS HARDEN MORE AS THEY SET AND A FINAL CLEARCOAT CAN RUIN AN OTHERWISE PERFECT PAINT JOB IF YOU DON'T LET THE FINISH COAT DRY PROPERLY!

AFTER YOU INSPECT THE CABINET FOR RUNS OR DUST BOOGERS WHICH CAN BE LIGHTLY TOUCH SANDED OFF WITH THE 2000 GRIT PAPER, DON'T WORRY ABOUT SCUFFING THE FINISH AS THE CLEARCOAT WILL REFLOW THE PAINT SLIGHTLY, HIDING YOUR SANDING IF YOU DO IT RIGHT AND GENTLY) YOU CAN EITHER MASK OFF AREAS FOR ANOTHER COLOR TRIM IF YOU LIKE OR GO FOR THE CLEARCOAT.

AGAIN I USE THE KRYLON ACRYLIC CLEAR AS IT REFLOWS AND BLEND MINOR BLEMISHES AND SHINES LIKE A MIRROR WHEN YOU GET A COUPLE COATS ON IT.

REMEMBER TO TACK RAG THE SET BEFORE YOU CLEARCOAT IT OR HAIRS OR DUST ON THE FINISH WILL BE FOREVER EMBEDDED IN THE CLEARCOAT IF YOU DON'T.

ALSO INSPECT THE CABINET CLOSELY FOR TACK RAG HAIRS ON THE FINISH BEFORE CLEARCOATING AS THEY DO SHED SOMETIMES, THEY ARE STICKY AND SOMETIMES THEY CAN LEAVE A STICKY HAIR IN THE CORNER OF AN OTHERWISE CLEAN SET. LIGHTLY BLOWING ON THE CABINET IF YOU SEE ANY DEBRIS CAN HELP KEEP THEM CLEAN IF YOU DON'T LEAVE A SPIT SPLATTER IN THE PROCESS, NOT TRYING TO BE GROSS BUT IT HAPPENS!

WHEN YOU DO THE CLEARCOAT REMEMBER TO FIRST REMOVE THE MASKING TAPE COVERING THE LABEL AREA WHICH SHOULD LEAVE YOU WITH A NICE CLEAN SEPARATION BETWEEN THE CLEARCOATED LABEL AREA AND THE PAINTED CABINET ALMOST AS IF IT NEVER WAS REPAINTED. WHEN YOU CLEARCOAT THE FINAL COAT YOU WILL BE BLENDING THE FINISH AND THE CLEARCOATED LABEL UNDER ONE NICE CLEARCOAT AND WON'T BE ABLE TO TELL IT WAS EVER REPAINTED IF YOUR TRIM JOB WAS GOOD IN THE FIRST PLACE.

START YOUR FINAL CLEARCOAT ON THE BOTTOM LABEL AREA AND AGAIN USE SWEEPING PASSES TO CLEAR THE EDGES OF THE CABINET AND AVOID DRY OVERSPRAY IN THE FINAL PASS. I TRY TO STAY ABOUT 4-6 INCHES AWAY FROM THE CABINET ON THE CLEARCOAT AND KEEP MOVING STEADILY AROUND THE RADIO, ACTUALLY TURNING THE RADIO ON THE SPINNING STAND MAKES THIS JOB EASIER.

IF YOU GET TOO FAR AWAY THE CLEARCOAT WILL GO ON DRY AND GRAINY, TOO CLOSE AND YOU WILL GET RUNS. SAME WITH THE COLOR FINISH COATS. PRACTICE ON A SCRAP CABINET TO GET THE TECHNIQUE WHICH YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH AND GETS THE RESULTS YOU ARE HAPPY WITH BEFORE GOING FULL TILT ON A KEEPER SET.

WHEN YOU GET THE FINAL CLEARCOAT ON IT STOP! SET THE CABINET ASIDE TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO TO THREE DAYS, YES THAT'S RIGHT DAYS! MOST PAINTS WILL STILL BE FLEXIBLE AFTER THE FIRST DAY AND TOUCHING THEM OR PULLING TAPE CAN BE A DISASTER AT BEST TO ALL THE WORK YOU'VE DONE. I USUALLY ADVISE TO TEST THE TAPE PULLING TIMES FOR THE PAINTS YOU WORK WITH ON A SCRAP CABINET TO SEE WHAT IF THE SAFEST FOR YOU AND IT WILL VARY BY BRAND OF PAINT, COLOR USED, THICKNESS OF COATS AND HUMIDITY IN THE AIR.

YOU WILL DEVELOP A FEEL FOR IT AS TIME GOES ON AND TRIAL IS BETTER THAN ERROR ANY DAY IN MY BOOK, PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE MAKES FOR PERFECT!

WHEN THE CABINET IS FULLY DRIED INSPECT IT FOR BLEMS AND YOU CAN TOUCHUP SANDING, TACK RAG, AND RECOAT THE CLEAR IF YOU WANT TO OR JUST BUFF IT OUT WITH A LITTLE TOOTHPASTE OR MOTHERS MAG WHEEL POLISH BUT IF YOU USE THE MOTHERS GO EASY ON PRESSURE AS IT CAN EAT THROUGH A FINISH IN NO TIME IF YOU PRESS IT IN TOO HARD BUT IT WORKS GREAT ON FACTORY POWDER COAT FINISHES AND LACQUER TO POLISH OUT BLEMS. TOOTHPASTE IS MORE GENTLE AND NOT CAUSTIC TO FRESH PAINT.

WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE YOUR RADIO BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO NICK OR SCRATCH IT WITH THE CHASSIS AS YOU INSERT IT INTO THE CABINET AND DON'T USE ANY POWER TOOLS TO TIGHTEN THE SCREWS DOWN, JUST FINGER TIGHTEN GENTLY TO AVOID PULLING UP THE PAINT AROUND THE SCREW MOUNTS, I EVEN GO SO FAR AS TO USE A FELT PAD UNDER THE WASHER ON EACH SCREW TO PREVENT CABINET FINISH DAMAGE AFTER ALL THAT WORK.

THEN APPLY SOME FELT FEET TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR SET TO PREVENT SCRATCHES FROM SETTING THE RADIO ON YOUR DISPLAY SHELF. JUST PLACE THE PADS GENTLY ON THE RADIO BOTTOM AND THE WEIGHT OF THE RADIO WILL PLACE THEM SECURELY WITHOUT DIGGING THEM INTO THE FINISH.

THEN I WOULD SAY ENJOY THE RADIO AND YOUR LABOR OF LOVE.

I USE ARMOR ALL FOR PAINT (AGAIN FOUND AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE) AND AN OLD PIECE OF A FLANNEL SHIRT TO KEEP MY GEMS POLISHED AFTER A FEW WEEKS OF DISPLAY AS THEY WILL GET DUSTY AND THE ARMOR ALL WORKS GREAT AND LEAVES NO RESIDUE NOR DOES IT HARM THE PAINT.

LACQUER IS HARDER THAN ACRYLIC ENAMEL AND CAN BE BUFFED OUT TO A GLASS LIKE SHINE IF YOU PUT ENOUGH COATS OF FINISH ON IT BUT THE KRYLON DOESN'T LIKE BUFFING NOR DOES IT NEED IT AS IT SHINES NICE BY ITSELF WITH JUST THE ARMOR ALL FOR PAINT TO KEEP IT CLEANED AND SHINY.

I HOPE THIS HAS HELPED YOU TO BEGIN TO ENJOY THE PROCESS OF REFINISHING SOME OF YOUR RADIOS, REMEMBER, PATIENCE PAYS OFF, DON'T TRY TO RUSH THE PROCESS AND YOU WILL LEARN QUICKLY HOW TO MAKE EACH ONE COME OUT BEAUTIFULLY.

I HAVE OVER 15 SETS I HAVE REPAINTED AND EACH ONE HAS BEEN A CHALLENGE AND A SUPER LOOKER WHEN DONE. I EVEN DO TWO TONERS AS YOU CAN SEE WHICH ARE A REAL CHALLENGE AS THE MASKING IS THE KEY AND CAN LITERALLY TAKE LONGER THAN THE PAINTING PROCESS ITSELF BUT ITS WORTH IT IN THE LONG RUN. REMEMBER...WORK OUTDOORS IF POSSIBLE OR IN A WELL VENTILATED DUST FREE ENVIRONMENT, AND USE SAFETY EQUIPMENT AS PAINT FUMES CAUSE DRAIN BRAMAGE! LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES AND GOD BLESS †

DECO DAN